GENERIC GARMENT INVESTIGATION
Throughout this new project, I have decided to continue to explore aspects of the singlet cut and paste exercise. I found that this exercise triggered the most interest for me, permitting me to explore further possibilities. I like the notion of repetition and cutting and pasting a generic garment to alter its appearance and function. I chose to use this technique also with the leggings exercise, taking a pair of leggings then flipping another pair and joining them at the waistband. I kept one of the leggings opened at the crotch so you could get in. During Adel’s workshop, one of the tasks were to ask the general public to put on the garment they way they think correct. It was interesting to watch how the people wear and interpret your garment. It made me want to explore the idea of allowing the wearer to have the option to wear the garment in different ways or how they feel is best suited.
DEFINING STRETCH
‘To straighten or extend one’s body or apart of one’s body to its full length.’ Subsequently I was drawn to this definition of the term ‘stretch’. I feel that I can relate it back to my conception of the theme. I have chosen to focus on the word ‘extend’ in particular and interpret it as in taking an object and extending its purposes or functions. For example, I thought about taking an arm on a stretch top, and repeating it several times along the side seam, allowing the wearer to have the option of which arm hole they want to use, therefore ‘extending’ their options.
Stretch materials allow for good drape and hangs well on the body. I find with stretch fabric, your design looks a certain way as a pattern draft, yet once you construct the garment in the fabric it looks completely different. It tends to drape excessively therefore you lose a sense of structure to the garment and it becomes something else, more relaxed and fluid. I first saw this result with the geometric t-shirt exercise. We were asked to use geometric shapes to propose a new cut or pattern for the generic t-shirt. After drafting the pattern, and constructing the toile, I realised the influence and manipulation the fabric had on it once it was on the stand. It appeared softer and more fluid, in contrast to its geometric and rigid pattern.
AIM
My aim is to produce a series of prototypes that are an adequate representation of my ideas and concepts. Within this, I hope to create garments that have the option to be worn in different ways to stimulate different moods / styles. Also I would like to incorporate the concept of collage into my designs, whether it be through displaying the contrasts between stretch i.e. drape vs. tension or by simply incorporating contrast fabrics, containing different visual appearances or textures. I hope to produce between two or three garments, yet within the time remaining, I will most likely only manage to complete two garments.
RESEARCH AND METHODS
To begin my toil exploration, I wanted to use already made garments from home and from op-shops to experiment with. My idea was to gather generic garments and join them together to make one single garment, almost like putting together a jigsaw puzzle (n. A puzzle consisting of a mass of irregularly shaped pieces of cardboard, plastic, or wood that form a picture when fitted together.) This idea relates back to my initial theme of mutated forms, unconventional pairings, disassembled structure and rearrangement of form. I was heavily influenced by German artist Hans Bellmer. Bellmer was best known for his life-sized female dolls he produced in the 1930’s. His work is intriguing yet rather disturbing with the mutated forms and unconventional poses he created by rearranging parts of the dolls.
I am planning to use cottons or polyester blends with lycra/ spandex as they have great stretch and drape qualities. Lycra based fabrics are generally used due to their exceptional elasticity. It is most commonly used for extremely tight clothing and swimwear. Lycra is like a second skin, as it appears as if the wearer is naked or coated in a shiny or matte-like paint. Although, I have chosen to design loose fitting garments to contradict the function of Lycra and accentuate its good drape qualities.
The fabrics that I have been toiling with have proven to be quite easy to work with. The course on the fabric should usually go downwards on the grain of the pattern so that the side edges don’t curl. However, in my cut and past singlet exercise, I experimented different finishing alternatives by placing the fabric on the cross of the grain, allowing the arm straps and neck hole edges to curl, so I could leave them as a raw edge. I then finished the edge with an un-folded coverstitch in a contrasting colour that turned out to be very effective.
Swimwear is generally made from Lycra based fabrics. It’s popular amongst recreational swimmers who don’t spend too much time in the swimming pool, as chlorine tends to fade the dye pigment. Lycra can also be fetishist and used in the latex bodysuits or bondage. These latex Lycra bodysuits are becoming increasingly popular in the fetish or bondage scenes. Personally I think that some of the bondage braces are quite interesting and I could see myself being inspired by the general elements of the straps and buckles and possibly use aspects of them on a garment.
PROCESS
Generally I have been exploring my ideas through sketches, toiling and photos. Taking photos of my toile’s gives me a chance to see it in a different, taken back perspective. It’s almost like holding up a drawing or artwork in front of a mirror to see it further away or flipped.
It’s hard to determine how my work is positioned in relation to other practitioners in fashion and broader design areas. My intention is to create pieces that are not so conventional, and pieces that you wouldn’t see in the commercial clothing market.
Although visually my work is nothing like his, I really admire Hussein Chalayan’s experimental and conceptual work. He uses unconventional materials and technique such as blown up skirts, armchair covers which transform into dresses, chairs into suitcases and a coffee table into a wooden skirt. I admire his ability to transform everyday items into fashion and for them to have a multifunction ability about them, which is what drew me to him.
OUTCOMES- PROTOYPE SERIES
In my prototype series, I intend to explore the notion of having the option to wear the garment in more than one way. To achieve this, I have looked at the possibilities of repetition of design elements, joining of various garments into one and flipping and pasting garments.
The major components for my prototypes will be referencing the generic garments and looking at ways I can enhance them and give them another purpose/ function. Within this, I will be experimenting different ways I can achieve significant drape, as I feel that stretch fabric has excellent drape qualities and I want to utilise this in my prototypes.
OUTCOMES- VISUAL COMMUNICATION
I think I am best at communicating my work through collage and drawing. I am planning on using photos of the prototypes and other sources of inspiration and combing them into a single image. I think this method best reflects the concept of my theme; combining elements of design through manipulation and rearrangement of generic garments.
To communicate my work, I am planning on doing a book spread that is simple, clean and minimal. I will have white pages with a single image on each page.
CONCLUSION
Overall, the major elements of my project are to extend the wearer’s option on how to wear the garment and do this by teaming functionality of design elements and repetition of design features. Visualising my work as a collage helps me express design possibilities where I can combine contrasting fabric and infuse certain aspects of the generic garments into my prototypes. Throughout this project I have heavily referred back to the cut and paste singlet exercise, where I have taken the notion of repetition by flipping patterns to create a new outcome, visually and functionally. I also have been constantly referring back to artist Hans Bellmer to gain inspiration for new ideas and to generate designs.
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