To begin my toile exploration, I decided to use the block of the tailored jacket and eliminate the opening, the collar and lapel from the front block, replacing them with a seam at the centre front. On the back bock I left the centre back open to allow for a lapel.To generate the collar and lapel that I am after, I cut a strip of calico and attached it to the neckline, slash and opening it to produce the right shape. The finished result of the toile is still a work in progress, yet I am content with the shape I am achieving through working on the stand, as opposed to 2-dimensional patterns.
Slash and opening on the neckline: Firstly I marked in where I wanted to slash and open from, I then cut straight onto the strip of calico then sewed in small rectangular pieces of fabric to fill in the slash and open lines.
This is the back view of my toile. The shape it is creating is looking a lot like an oversized lapel, which could be interesting to have at the back opening.
The darts and pockets are left the same as the original block. I want to keep the front as simple as possible.
It's starting to form a nice shape, but I will have to trim a lot back from the collar strip.
The collar will only be attatched until the back neck, then will reciede down the back of the body.
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